Renaissance man and radical, John Fraser, who lived from 1794-1879, was famed for his involvement in the Radical Rising of 1820.

Background

During the unrest John, along with a number of other ‘radicals’, was tried for treason, following a week of strikes and protests throughout Scotland.

Following his release from prison, John returned to teaching for the next 16 years. His curriculum was widely admired throughout the West of Scotland.

He later moved his family to Edinburgh, where, in 1839, he invested his life savings in launching the radical Chartist newspaper, ‘The True Scotsman.’ The paper went on to become the best-selling newspaper in the country at the time.

He also had a long career as a weaver, educator, writer, poet, musician, public speaker and was a leading light in the development of the Johnstone Cooperative Movement.

For his musical talents John enjoyed great success touring the UK and later the US and Canada with his family performing some of the work of Burns that he’d adapted to music, where the performances secured rave reviews.

John Fraser’s impact

The Renfrewshire radical has now been honoured with a plaque which has been installed at Johnstone Town Hall in recognition of his importance to the town.

Tannahill Makar, Shaun Moore, has been inspired by Renfrewshire’s radicals in his own poetry and writings.

He said: “I believe it’s right for people to know about figures like John Fraser, as they strove to build a fairer society for us. They are important figures who dedicated their lives to improving the lives of others, which was a kind of heroism. That’s worth not only commemorating but being thankful for too.

“As an artist, a writer, I believe that creativity and rebellion have always gone hand in hand. This is sometimes because our artists instinctively seek new ways of seeing or doing things, but more often because historically their role has been to advocate change or champion the voiceless and invisible people.

“Learning of the real sacrifices made by people like John Fraser has given me courage to stick my neck out, as a writer. Learning of the Weaver poets before him and of the songwriters, playwrights, and visual artists who came after, gives me a sense of duty to carry on the tradition of challenging.”

Paisley’s Gaelic connections are far-reaching and have significantly shaped the town’s cultural heritage from poetry and song, to weaving and thread making, education, philanthropy and religious worship. 

Our most iconic building – Paisley Abbey – has direct links to Gaeldom dating back to 1164 when Somerled MacGillebride, King of Argyll, was killed in battle in Renfrew.

Soon after, the Monastery of Renfrew was moved to a new site in Paisley, heavily funded – annually, a silver penny for each house in his lands which make smoke – by Somerled’s son Reginald, progenitor of Clan Donald and the Lord of the Isles. In return, he was declared a true brother of the Monastery and links between Paisley Abbey and the Lords of the Isles continued for 400 years until the Reformation.

The anniversary of the battle was commemorated in 2014 and included a performance by Renfrewshire Schools’ Ceilidh Band, led by Morag Currie. The group composed an original piece of music based on 12th century plainchant, rhythms and texts.

Textile production

In the late 18th century, textile production in Paisley had created a wealthy artisan weaving community, coinciding with The Highland Clearances and extreme poverty in Gaelic speaking areas. Highlanders were drawn to Paisley by well-paid work and a substantial Gaelic community was established in the town.

In 1794, a Gaelic chapel, seating 1,090, was opened and Gaelic Sunday schools were established. Poverty in the Highlands resulted in vast parishes and few ministries, to alleviate this, a Gaelic Missionary Society was established in Paisley in 1817.

Every year, up to six Gaelic Ministries, funded by Paisley, travelled the Highlands and Islands, preaching and distributing Gaelic bibles.

Iain Camshron, Bàrd Phàislig, was born on the Isle of Man in 1865 and moved to Ballachulish as the age of two before Paisley became his home as a young boy.

Camshron wrote a number of Gaelic songs including ‘Air Fail il o Iriag’, ‘Taobh Loch Eite’, ‘Gaol nan Cruinneag’ and ‘Gleann Bhaile Chaoil’ – the latter widely regarded as one of the most famous Ceilidh songs.

Harris Tweed can be said to have its origins in Paisley, stretching back to the 1840s when two islanders came south to be trained by local Paisley weavers – the cloth produced with the techniques they learned was of such quality their local landowner saw a chance to market it as a high-end product.

From there, Harris Tweed as we know it was born. To this day, a plaque dedicated to ‘the Paisley sisters’ sits on the site of their former cottage on the now-uninhabited island of Pabbay.

In the late 19th century, Paisley mills, owned by the Coats family, dominated world production of sewing thread. By 1900, several family members were millionaires and their philanthropy was far-reaching.

James Coats was the third generation of the family in the company and had a passion for establishing libraries in schools and remote rural communities. Between 1903 and 1912, he provided books for 4,000 libraries, mainly in the north and west of Scotland. He was particular about supplying Gaelic language books and, where not available, he had Gaelic translations published and printed by Alexander Gardener of Paisley.

Dòmhnall Ruadh Phàislig

One of Paisley’s most famous links to the Mòd comes from the Bàrd, Dòmhnall Ruadh Phàislig. Dòmhnall Ruadh was the Mòd Bàrd from 1938-39 and is recognised for his contribution to Gaelic poetry and song. His collected works were published as ‘Sporan Dhòmhnaill’, which contain a translation of Tam O’Shanter into Gaelic.

He was also the author of the famous song Òran na Cloiche – the story of the stealing of the Stone of Destiny. He is buried in Hawkhead Cemetery in Paisley, where a new gravestone was erected to commemorate him in 2001. His relatives still live in the town.

Did you know Paisley’s Coats Observatory has a rich history of weather recording?

In this blog, John Pressly, science curator at Coats Observatory, tells us all about this fascinating tradition.

“Everyone likes to talk about the weather, whether it be good, bad or unexpected. On 23 March each year World Meteorology Day commemorates the work done in recording weather globally. Raising awareness of how the weather and climate affects everyone and everything on our planet.

“Paisley has a long tradition of weather recording, dating back to 1858. That year a scientific meteorology station was set up in the grounds of Ferguslie House, the home of local thread manufacturer Thomas Coats.

“In 1883 Thomas gifted Coats Observatory to the town and the responsibility for collecting local weather data shifted to this newly opened scientific institution. Equipment was set up in the observatory garden and daily readings of rainfall, sunshine, temperature and wind speed were taken. These were written down and kept in large ledgers which are now safely stored at the ‘Secret Collection’ on Paisley High Street.

The Sunshine Recorder is just one of the many objects that will feature in the weather story display once the museum reopens.

“These records reveal some of the weather extremes Paisley has experienced over the years. Such as the coldest day, recorded on February 10, 1895, when the thermometer dropped down to minus 15.1^oC. And the hottest (so far) on June 28, 2018, when the mercury hit 32.4^oC. As well as the wettest, December 10, 1994, when 89mm of rain fell in one single day. This led to widespread flooding, especially in Ferguslie Park.

Coats Observatory Weather Book. Almost 130 years-worth of weather data is recorded in these large log books. They are now kept in the museum store.

“The weather story will be just one of several being told in Paisley Museum when the building reopens in 2024.”

Discover more for yourself

The museum is currently undergoing a £42m transformation into a leading European museum. It will tell the stories of Paisley’s people and Pattern, and be home to internationally-significant collections.

If, like us, you want to stay up to date with the progress of the project, check out the Paisley Museum Reimagined campaign.

Did you know the Erskine Bridge celebrated it’s 50th birthday in July?

The iconic crossing over the Clyde opened on the 2 July 1971, becoming the first fixed link between West Dunbartonshire and Renfrewshire. The cable-stayed steel box girder bridge was designed by Freeman Fox and Partners.

Discussions on the need for a bridge began in the 1930s, though it was the early 1960s before significant progress was made. As proposals for the network of motorways and dual carriageways in Central and West Scotland matured, it became clear that a bridge at this location would be an important piece of the jigsaw.

It was an ambitious and technically challenging project. The completion led to significant reductions in journey times, particularly during the busy tourist season when traffic reaches its peak.

Today, the bridge carries over 35,000 vehicles every day. A notably slender design adds to the unique and recognisable appearance of what was not just the first large-scale cable stayed bridge in Scotland but, for a time, the bridge with the longest cable-stayed span in the world. The project cost £10.5 million, the equivalent of almost £150 million today.

The Erskine Bridge was also awarded Category A status by Historic Environment Scotland (HES) in November 2018.

Take a closer at this amazing structure with the video above!

Now that you’ve read all about the history of Renfrew’s Bascule Bridge with this first blog, find out some things you didn’t know about the Grade A listed structure.

1. The Scherzer style Bascule Bridge in Renfrew is one of few surviving rolling lift bridges in Scotland.
2. ‘Bascule’ is French for a seesaw. This type of bridge provides roadway while allowing a ship to pass through when needed. Tower Bridge in London is one of the best known examples of a Bascule bridge.
3. When the bridge opens, it reaches skyward almost 120 feet above the ground.
4. The Bascule Bridge became Category A listed in December 1994.
5. Construction for the new bridge broadened the White Cart’s channel at the bridges from 48 to 90 feet. Previously, the narrow river had limited the size of craft that could be constructed in local shipbuilding yards.
6. The Bascule Bridge was designed and built by Sir William Arrol & Co., who also built some other famous bridges around the UK including the Forth and Tay rail bridges, and Tower Bridge in London. The founder, Sir William Arrol, was born in Houston in 1839 and his father was a cotton spinner.
7. In the 1830s, while steam navigation was still in its early days, a passenger steamer called ‘The Cupid’ travelled down the Cart and Clyde as far as Rothesay, taking 12 hours there and back. It was nicknamed ‘The Stupid’, on account of its tendency to run into sandbanks.
8. In November 1880, a horse and wagon load of straw were completely blown off a previous bridge into the river. The driver escaped just in time and received damages of £105.
9. In the 1980s, it was reported that an eccentric American oil tycoon wanted to buy the Bascule Bridge and even visited the structure in an 18-foot black limousine.
10. When the bridge opened, it cost two shillings and sixpence for vessels to pass under the bridge between 6am and 6pm, and this was to be paid both inwards and outwards.

The Bascule Bridge is a major feature on the main approach to Renfrew town centre from the airport. To this day, people gather to watch the grade A listed structure rise into the sky.

But do you know how the bridge came to be? Find out with this blog by Rachael Morris.

Looking back

Before the affectionately known “tin bridge” was constructed, there were several other structures which stood in its place and the local landscape sustained some significant changes too. In fact, records suggest that there were three swing bridges across the canalised part of the White Cart at Inchinnan Bridge between around 1792 and 1920.

Up until 1759, a ford or ferry helped people to cross the joined mouth of the Black and White Cart. But as the 18th century progressed, it became more obvious a road bridge was needed to improve travel between the growing city of Glasgow and Renfrewshire. So in 1759, an arched stone bridge was constructed on the site of the former fording place. This ran in a straight line across the mouth of the Black and White Cart rivers, connecting with the Abbotsinch Paisley Road. However, there were lots of shallows close by and small vessels couldn’t always get their masts underneath. This bridge eventually collapsed due to floodtides in the early 19th century and two separate bridges, which are still in use today, were built to replace it.

Around 1790, to improve navigation of the White Cart water to Paisley, a half mile long canal was cut at Blythswood, to ease the river’s problems for the few craft which used it, forming the stretch of water which the current bridge raises itself skyward over.

The first bridge to cross this new canal seemingly lasted until 1835. The Clyde to Paisley River Improvement led to its replacement. In 1876 the bridge was replaced again, before this structure finally became completely outmoded in 1920, as both road users complained about the condition of the road and Paisley Shipbuilders complained about the bridge’s waterway obstructing capabilities.

Building the Bascule Bridge

In 1920, power was granted to the burgh of Paisley to improve the navigation channel at Inchinnan and replace the old swing bridge with a more modern structure. The following year, Sir William Arrol & Co. received the contract for the new bridge.

Construction for the new bridge broadened the White Cart’s channel at the bridges from 48 to 90 feet so that much larger boats could now pass down, answering the complaints of Paisley shipbuilders, who found the narrowness of the river had previously limited the size of craft that could be erected in their yards. During the construction, a light railway was even laid to haul excavated materials upstream in trucks.

The new structure featured a clear opening span of 90 feet, with a 20-foot roadway and two footways for pedestrians. When open, it reaches a height of almost 120 feet above ground. And while the previous structure was a hand operated cast iron bridge, with a capacity limited to a three-ton vehicle, the new bridge is electrically operated and offered a much improved capacity of 30 tons.

The project cost around £62,000 to complete, costs which were shared between Paisley Town Council, Local Authorities and the shipbuilders on the Cart.

The Grand Opening

Approximately three years after receiving the contract, the inauguration of the bridge took place on Wednesday 21 March 1923. A 6,000 strong crowd came to watch Provost Lang formally declare the new Scherzer style bridge open. The Provost’s remarks were short and to the point, “I now declare the bridge open and may it have a longer and a much more useful life than its predecessor.” After the bridge was lowered and the crowd had lined up across the footway for a photograph, the invited guests hopped into waiting cars and travelled over the new bridge to Paisley, where tea was served with Provost Lang presiding. A week later, on Wednesday 28 March, the bridge officially opened for use.

The Bascule Bridge – The Heritage Centre, Renfrewshire Leisure

Meeting road and water demands

The new bridge formed a very important link in road communication between Glasgow and the lower reaches of the Clyde, greatly increasing traffic facilities on the roads between Glasgow and Greenock, and giving access to Ayrshire and the South of Scotland. However, the structure also provided a vital water gateway which improved access from Paisley Harbour to the Clyde and sea.

In 1936 it was reported that the bridge was raised 20 times a week to allow shipping to proceed to and from Paisley Harbour. However, since the closure of Paisley Harbour in the late 1960s, it is now almost an event to witness the bridge being raised.

Later, Babcock and Wilson in Renfrew relied on the bridge for transferring heavy structures on barges. While it was reported in 1975 that the bridge had only opened for two vessels in the last three years, Babcock and Wilcox said the bridge was vital to the future of their factory.

Lindsay McKillop, from Renfrew Community Council, said:

“The “tin bridge” has been part of Renfrew’s history for many years and it is really important to take a moment to recognise its significance as the only remaining rolling lift bridge in the entire country. The bridge is a historical working exhibition of engineering and, to this day, it is held in high regard in the engineering world.

“Lots of people travel far and wide to see the bridge opening. And for those of us who live locally, I think we are quite spoiled to have such a marvel of engineering on our doorstep and to see the bridge lit up in all its splendour.

“For nearly 100 years, the Bascule Bridge has been part of our history and stands proud as it says welcome to or goodbye from Renfrew.”

Protecting the future

Since the bridge was built, a number of repair and restoration works have been undertaken to help safeguard the future of the structure.

Between 2001 and 2004, Renfrewshire Council undertook major restoration work on the bridge to save the important road link from imminent closure, whilst also removing a long standing weight restriction and re-establishing the opening facility to secure the use of the water for freight and pleasure craft.

Due to the complexity and historical significance of the bridge, the restoration was carried out in several stages and required careful planning and coordination. A major new architectural lighting system was also installed in complementary tones to highlight this unusual structure. The restoration work cost in excess of £1 million and was awarded a commendation from the Saltire Society for Civil Engineering.

In more recent years, it is a rare occasion to see the giant iron arm of the bridge lifting skyward over the Cart, but it is an impressive sight none-the-less. And to this day, people still gather to watch the only surviving bridge of its kind in Scotland roll back on its special track and lift into the sky above the White Cart water.

On 29 December 1745, exactly 275 years ago to the day, the Jacobites led by Bonnie Prince Charlie issued a summons to the then Paisley Town Council to meet and account for raising a local militia against them.

This summons, along with a receipt from the Prince’s Secretary for a £500 fine paid just five days later by the people of Paisley, will go on display when Paisley Museum reopens following its £42m redevelopment.

Unlike other towns, that were also fined by the Jacobites but later reimbursed, Paisley’s money has never been returned. Glasgow received £10,000 for its loss in 1749, and in 1750 Dumfries was indemnified with £2,800, however every application Paisley made was refused.

Archie Henderson, Social History Research Assistant for Paisley Museum said: “The history of the Jacobites is full of fascinating tales and having the opportunity to reinterpret the museum’s collection, tell new stories and retell old stories in a more engaging way is all part of the museum’s redevelopment. On 30th December this year Bonnie Prince Charlie will celebrate his 300th birthday, so what better time for us to remind people of this part of our town’s history.”

Jacobite Propaganda Medal

Originally, Bonnie Prince Charlie fined Paisley £1,000 and took Bailie Matthew Kyle and former Bailie William Park hostage to ensure the fine was paid. However, this fine was later reduced to £500 providing it was paid in full by the following evening. When the time came, the town only managed to pay £300, and the payment window was extended by 12 hours. At the final hour the remaining payment was made to the Jacobites and a receipt from the Prince’s Secretary John Murray of Broughton was issued.

Henderson goes on to explain: “After the Jacobites were defeated at Culloden, and money started to be repaid to other towns, Paisley Council was advised that they should take John Murray to court, which they did in 1753 and the case dragged on for seven years without success. In 1760 an appeal was launched but again there is no record of any response or positive outcome, so the debt has remained outstanding.”

It is believed that £500 in today’s money would be worth more than £100,000.

The redevelopment of the museum will enable the number of objects on display to be increased by 100%. Significant items from the Jacobite collection that will go on display alongside the summons (dated 29 Dec 1745) and the receipt (dated 3 Jan 1746) include a Culloden sword passed down from the Carlile family; a Jacobite silver medal commissioned by Bonnie Prince Charlie; a painting by David Wilkie (1819) of The Veteran Highlander; and a headstone originally from the grounds of Paisley Abbey commemorating John Orr, one of eight Paisley volunteers killed at the Battle of Falkirk in 1746.

Culloden sword

Paisley Museum is part of the town’s radical regeneration plan, and the redesign of the campus is led by an international team including architects AL_A and exhibition designers Opera Amsterdam. When it reopens it is expected to attract over 125,000 visits each year and provide a £79 million economic boost to the area over the next 30 years.

Councillor Lisa-Marie Hughes, Chair of Renfrewshire Leisure, said: “Paisley’s collections are culturally significant and the museum’s refurbishment is a wonderful opportunity for the town to reinterpret our objects for public display in a way that is engaging and meaningful to visitors. It is also a real tribute to our curatorial teams past and present, that our objects are still in such good condition, and are able to illustrate the area’s rich culture and the people’s story.”

Paisley Museum Reimagined is supported by Renfrewshire Council, the National Lottery Heritage Fund and the Scottish Government’s Regeneration Capital Grant Fund. The museum’s final phase of fundraising is now under way, with the museum website reimagined.paisleymuseum.org showcasing the project’s ambitious vision.

A team of experts spent the summer of 2019 excavating at Paisley’s Abbey Drain – but what did they find?

We already knew Scotland’s finest and best-preserved medieval tunnel lies buried beneath Paisley town centre – but the centuries-old mystery of where it ended had never been solved…until now.

The team uncovered a well-preserved 14^th-century stone archway marking the exact point the drain and its contents once flowed into the River Cart.

The tunnel – believed to be around 100m long – ends around 3m from the banks of the present-day river, which would have been wider and shallower at the time the drain was built.

And while the find is now being covered up again, the discovery could help lead to a more permanent visitor attraction opening up access to the drain in the future.

The eight-week Abbey Drain Big Dig was co-ordinated by Renfrewshire Council and led by Guard Archaeology Ltd, funded by National Lottery Heritage Fund, Historic Environment Scotland and Renfrewshire Local History Forum.

More than 6,500 people visited the dig over the eight weeks, which also saw a strong community element, with volunteers from the local history forum taking part, and a series of events and seminars for residents and visitors.

Dig leader Bob Will of Guard Archaeology has described the condition of what the team found as ‘incredible’.

Bob said: “We found more than I was expecting and it is really exciting.

“We found the end of the drain and what was the boundary wall of the monastery. The river was wider and shallower in those days – much more than in the last couple of hundred years, as the walls now surrounding it are artificial.

“The main parts of the drain date back to the mid-14^th-century and are incredibly well preserved. It goes as least as far as the road in front of Renfrewshire House.

“Often these types of drains are in rural areas not urban ones where there will have been pressure on the land above it – but considering the amount of buildings on that site over the centuries, the condition of the drain is quite incredible.”

The Abbey Drain has lain hidden for centuries until it was unexpectedly rediscovered in the 19^th century, and in recent years, it has been periodically opened up for visitors.

There will be an opportunity for the public to put their names forward for a ballot to go inside it during this year’s Doors Open Day in September.

And Bob believes the finds of the past few weeks could help the development of a more permanent attraction opening up a greater degree of public access to the drain.

Bob said: “What we have uncovered has helped us see what could be done with any future excavation. We now know much more about the medieval ground levels and have a good idea where some of the monastery buildings were.

“Ideally there would be more permanent access to the drain at some point in the future and what we’ve uncovered here makes that much more feasible.”

Over the course of the Big Dig, the following community benefits were delivered:

• 120 Primary school children from across Renfrewshire visited the Big Dig to learn about their local heritage and archaeology;
• 1,200 hours of volunteer time, and 18 new members for Renfrewshire Local History Forum
• 12 archaeology students gained vocational training as part of their degree, and four Masters students from UWS produced video content.

The biggest-ever exploration of Paisley’s Abbey Drain is now underway – and hopes to unveil some centuries-old secrets.

An archaeological dig has started at the complex underground structure which links the town’s 850-year-old Abbey to the River Cart.

The Big Dig hopes to uncover more about the passageway and to reveal more about life in Paisley hundreds of years ago.

Initial excavations of the site unearthed the earliest polyphonic musical notation and the largest collection of medieval pottery ever found in the west of Scotland – and it is hoped that this two-month long project will uncover many more secrets.

The dig is managed by Renfrewshire Council, run by Guard Archaeology with help from Renfrewshire Local History Forum volunteers, and supported by funding from the National Lottery Heritage Fund and Historic Environment Scotland.

Here’s what council leader Iain Nicolson had to say:

“Paisley has such a rich history and heritage, full of stories and mysteries, and the tale of the Abbey Drain has really captured the attention of the public.

“This is a project that’s of both local and national significance. It has really struck a chord with people who live here who have a genuine interest in Renfrewshire’s social and economic history and will provide us with information on a complex underground system which was operating hundreds of years ago.

“This could be the first step towards opening up the Drain as a permanent visitor attraction in the future – which would fit perfectly with the ongoing work to use Paisley’s unique heritage to make it one of Scotland’s key destinations for visitors and events.”

Bob Will of Guard Archaeology is leading the team working on the dig:

“This is such an exciting project for us and for the community, and we’re pleased to be progressing with the next stage.

“Most of the work on the drain so far has been carried out from the inside and has told us a lot about the drain itself.

“What’s going on underneath the surface can also tell us about what once stood on the site, so by excavating the drain, we can find out about the drainage system which served what would have once been a bustling community.

“We’re looking forward to continuing the excavations and to finding out what else the Abbey Drain can tell us about life in Paisley hundreds of years ago.”

How can I get involved?

The Big Dig also includes an extensive programme of activity to involve the local community. Students at the University of the West of Scotland will create a series of short films and a documentary on the drain, and there will also be school visits, volunteering opportunities, and free talks and workshops for the public.

Members of the public will not have access to the drain during the Big Dig – but there will be a chance for residents and visitors to go inside it, as in previous years, during the Doors Open Days weekend on 7 and 8 September.